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While it is neither Mannheim Rotterdam, Vienna and Istanbul yet - and yet it has something for everybody. In the small city, as its inhabitants like to call them, meet the Baroque, Art Nouveau and fascinating modern architecture grisly purpose buildings from the postwar period, a port reaches a nature reserve, and a Catholic church vis-Ã -vis one of the largest mosques in Germany. Urbanity pure.
On the road widths are talking strictly two veiled young women in a Turkish-German melange to their infants quengelnden A. The tram screeches miserably on the rails, the ripple of the fountain Grupello on the parade square is only audible in its vicinity.
Mannheim is a constant contrast. The capital of Kurpfalz is not a classic beauty, certainly not, but there will never be boring. Change was always here. While they are good 400-year history witnessed the former residence town of Elector both times glorious splendor as well as absolute destruction, and repeatedly.
The start of a sustained economic recovery took place in the first half of the 19th Century. After decades, mainly caused by wars phase of decline Mannheim began to grow again, and some unsavory problems grew. 1822 - a sewer, there were not - forbade the then city manager Philipp Anton von Jagemann by police "in the house with the collected Kothe Kehrricht" on the road to dispose of.
Violations were recorded with a hefty fine punished. A witty Mannheimer Baker will be the first time a suspicious-looking, brown baking goods on the market that are still under the name "Mannemer dirt" is known. A creative form of protest? Quite possible.
Delicious with "Shut up"
With the authorities here had been at the confluence of the Rhine and Neckar its early problems. As the 1605 Elector Friedrich IV, the strategic location for the construction of a fort used to, when he met with the residents of the village, home to man indignant resistance. In order to calm the minds granted the Regent of the urban settlement privileges. The protest had an impact, and perhaps this is the origin of the self-conscious and highly disputable setting Mannheimer mentality. It is times like angeeckt, the local tone, the infamous "Berlin snout" in no.
Gewöhnungsbedürftig is also the local dialect, which, inter alia, by strangely monotonous word endings concerned. Foreign Nichtverstehenden wash their inability to quickly whether the head. Kurpfälzer finally see their region as the navel of the world, and how can you not speak his language?
Who they are closer acquaintance, it is noted that most Mannheimer very lovable contemporaries are. And they know this life to enjoy. Mr. Hans Degen is one of them, a man who for hours about quality coffee, cake magic and history of his native city can tell. 31 years conducted in 1935, born the same master confectioner, 1838 established family business. Two years ago, took his daughters Martina and Simone - both also confectioner masters - the business on the street corner E2, 4
The Lord Degens are sugar baker body and soul, and proud owner of the original recipe for "Mannemer filth." As evidence establishes Mr. Hans Degen abgewetzten a tape on the table. Adorn the cover discolored the remnants of a label with the sign "Mr Degen C." written in a clean fracture, including the year of the 1862nd It is the recipe book of his great-uncle Carl, Mr. Degen said. He and his brother Joseph had with Friedrich Bechter, the inventor of the "dirty", had befriended. The old master had his younger colleagues leave the recipe.
"Patience cookies" and "worm Cartridges"
The book is actually a guide for the fabrication of "dirt pile, 12 pieces". The rest is of course secret, and the slanted handwriting for ordinary people of our times do not decipherable. Even otherwise, the recipe collection contains some curious entries. In the category "Small Confeckt" There are, for example. "Patience cookies" and "worm cartridges. "Previously we had just been invented names," says Mr. Hans Degen with melancholy voice. The "dirt pile", however, have evolved over time to a "bunch of Mannheim, and then to" dirty Mannemer "changed. "The name is always something to become cultured," finds the master confectioner.
Nevertheless, he was a few decades ago bureaucrats a thorn in the eye. Dirt, so they were in 1984, is not in the German food items list of names belong therefore prohibited. The Mannheim Baker fought back - with success. The dispute went into the sand. Ten years later tried again Paragrasenhüter, the specialty renitente to domesticate. This should name the word "like gingerbread biscuits" are imposed. This action ended unsuccessfully.
"Mannemer dirt is not a gingerbread" outraged Mr. Hans Degen. The latter consists only of flour, sugar and spices, teaches the specialist for specialty Mannheims were opposed 14 different items on the list of ingredients. The delicate aroma of marzipan makes the "filth" in fact, something special, and an appetite for more.
Immigrants have always city
Back on the dead straight road, a few blocks from Mr. Degen's tradition is in the house showcase for Confectionery Taksin breathtakingly garish, surreal-looking cakes, according to the taste orientalischstämmiger Kurpfälzer. Around the corner it smells of fresh bread. Beside the door of a butcher-Helal hangs a Turkish-FDP election poster, Fatih Özdemir advocates for the Liberals to local.
Mannheim has always been a city of immigration. Already in the 17th Century were numerous Flemish, Dutch and French established. Many of them were religious refugees. The migrants brought many new ideas and cultural suggestions. That is until now has remained so. The city seems to be constantly re-invent itself to be, despite all crises, or they must be even. Some may regret this, as a character stamped loss, but at the same time, this dynamic has enormous opportunities for the future. And anyway, there is no alternative.
"Full Metal Mannheim" screams to the viewer a graffiti wall of a deserted courtyard opposite. Desire to challenge or help? Sprout from the pavement buntblühende Löwenmäulchen.
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