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Soweto - Soweto, a year before the World Cup: The red sandy paths between dilapidated huts are full of potholes. The rain of recent days has left puddles and mud. Freshly washed laundry flapping in the wind. At the roadside garbage bags pile up.
"If you drive through here, one sees not much. With the bike you get much closer," says Lebo Malepa. The young South Africans since 2005, organized bicycle tours for tourists in the South Western Township (Soweto). He is also the owner of Sowetos first backpackers - accommodation for young travelers from all over the world.
Just four kilometers from Johannesburg modern World Cup stadium, Soccer City removed the seeds here in the Orlando West district of the hope for an income through the mega-sporting event. When on 11 June of next year the first football World Cup on African soil will angepfiffen, Lebo wants its guests to a "Public Viewing" almost within sight of the events offer.
Today he is with a group of young Europeans on. In the working-class neighborhood Mzimhlope children play on a burned-out car wreck. They are immediately to the noticeable gelbbehelmten cyclists carefully. With a loud "Hello. How are you?" they run contrary to the cyclists and hold their hands to cast out. They have no fear, with some even trying to climb onto a bike. The older township residents curious to look skeptical, some greet and smile.
Cyclists live dangerously
A man with an umbrella hat approaching the cyclists. "Hey," he exclaims, "I'll show you something. Has anyone pen and paper?" Of numbers and letters, he designed a face in cross section. The artist writes his phone number like this. "Call me!" He says in the hope of new contacts and sponsors. A friendly old woman in front of a kindergarten grinning wide. "Even new people. Each week, new people."
Cyclists are a welcome change in the daily monotony. You are in everyday otherwise rarely see. Unlike in the rest of the continent, where the bicycle is a popular means of transport, it serves in South Africa more leisure at the weekend. Bicycle lanes do not exist, and most urban streets are dangerous for cyclists. Anyone who has no car, rising to one of the numerous minibus taxis, which are the backbone of public transport form.
Bongani Mazibuko, artist and art teacher, has agreed to the Rich visitors to show his home. It shares the building of the size of a garden cottage with his sister and her family. A small anteroom is crowded with Krimskrams, children's drawings, school bags, emblazoned middle of a brand new refrigerator. The adjacent bedroom is almost completely taken from a double bed. It smells a little musty, the corrugated iron roof does not seem to be waterproof. A bathroom does not exist: Toilets and showers are shared by the whole block is used.
Detour to Sheebeen
The life here is largely from outside, in the evening, it shifts into the so-called Shebeens, the township pubs in backyards and living rooms. Rather cool Pils there is homemade. Lebo guide opens a plastic bucket with a slightly pink shimmering broth. Glasses are not the traditional sour maize beer is straight from the bucket drunk. The will passed around until it is empty. The Shebeen locals gather to drink with. It is sociable - and a little later, a bucket with a thick sweet "energy drink" the rounds. He is also homemade and maize-based.
From out battle cries penetrate into the interior. There are supporters of the Inkatha Freedom Party - in South Africa is currently campaigning. With sticks and shields armed dancing to the predominantly Zulu-tribe belonging to party supporters on the street and try to attract attention. Photographs they want to leave, however, do not - they had too often in a negative context of the images found on the Internet, says Lebo.
Johannesburg's famous black Soweto suburb consists of a total of 29 districts to 120 square kilometers. Two to five million people live here, nobody knows. In addition to immigrants from neighboring countries also provide job-seekers from rural areas of South Africa for a permanent increase in the number of inhabitants. In the days of government-mandated racial segregation was the bleak suburban world's epitome of oppression, rebellion, violence and protest. Today, however, is the nightmare of the past becomes a symbol for the life of a new generation has become.
Soweto burger with fries and a fried egg
Has long been Soweto no longer just a poor slum. On the way to the houses of Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu to roll the bikes have smoothly paved roads. The sites are equipped with high walls and barbed wire secured. Children play here not on the road.
New shopping malls and restaurants, tennis courts and golf courses even have an appreciation for the care and municipal property prices can rise dramatically. Directly opposite of Mandela's former residence has one of these restaurants packed. Here, the traditional "Soweto-Burger" served white bread stuffed with hamburger and fries or fried egg. They are made Sattwerden.
The house of South African national hero in Vilakazi Street is currently 8115 for around 700,000 euros has been renovated and now open to tourism. Nelson Mandela moved there in 1946 with
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his first wife Evelyn, and lived after the divorce with his second wife Winnie Madikizela-Mandela was there. The family has been attacked several times, once a bomb hit the house. Today it is a national monument, museum and tourist magnet.
After the fatty meal is called for mountaineering. While the troupe gelbbehelmte climbs a hill, the bikes sit unguarded in a house wall. From the top you have a good view over the township and his best-known landmarks: the colorfully painted former cooling towers of the disused Orlando power station. Today plunge between them bungee jumper in the depth or dine on a platform with a wide view of Soweto.
Its population has turned to the more than 200,000 tourists annually accustomed. Township tourism is very popular among tourists, according to Johannesburg "trust". Once the visitor numbers following the xenophobic attacks in South Africa's largest city in May last year had fallen, they are now as high as before. Soweto has also suffered - although it is precisely there was little violence. In addition, there are many guesthouses in the famous township since late 2007 even
Four-star hotel
.
Curiosity about other countries
Lebos tour ends in another Shebeen. With regard to the international guests there is also this common commercial beers. Three o clock this afternoon is still not much going on. A local musician grabs a guitar from. Before some of his songs, he argues, it still ignites quickly to a joint. Dagga is the cannabis here - the sweet smell wabert in many places in the townships through the air.
Lebo, it is the locals involved. The concept comes. Shebeen Many guests like to tell themselves and their lives here. But they want in return, but also stories from Germany, the Netherlands and England heard. "I like to meet people from other countries. It is always exciting," says art teacher Bongani.
On the way back to the backpacker tells Lebo that he had his bicycle tours to the north of Johannesburg, the Alexandra township wants to expand. Residents as a guide, he has already found. Because without good contacts with the people at the place where such tours would be impossible - even in tourismuserprobten Soweto.
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