The taste of Surinam.

At Bakkeljauw between the gourmet ghosts: There are those who are disgusted, others are addicted to the red-brown paste stockfish. Who in Amsterdam and the origins of Snacks researches, learns a lot about colonial history and slavery.

 

In Amsterdam-Oost is lunch time and the weather says it is now well with the people. On the Javastraat is the local multi-cultural muddle: dark-skinned beauties in tight jeans popping stroll on veiled Moroccan mothers passing. Chinese nibble pumpkin seeds, Turkish shop owners commenting loudly the football results. Meanwhile the sun makes fruit and vegetables in various colors light up. The whole street is a feast for hungry eyes world, one can hardly see enough of. But sometime notify the stomach and hand calls for celebration. No problem.

On receipt of a Surinam "Tokos"? a typical mixed goods shop with snacks offer? scent is seductive. The interior is lined with shelves full of food, spices, tropical vegetables and pots. Behind the counter waiting for a broadly smiling woman. It recommends "broodje Bakkeljauw".

The red-brown mass on the rolls seems odd to. And after the first bite, there are probably only two possibilities: Either shudders one, or it is threatening acute danger - and of course would like the addict immediately learn the recipe. But the owner of the teeming Tokos determined from. That's his little secret, and the speeches he has no time now anyway. Photography? "No, rather not." A wall of polite refusal to do. So the visitor of his way again, with a comforting feeling in the abdomen and a few open questions.

But elsewhere it is for information regarding Bakkeljauw not available. Tokos and snack bars are available in this area abound, but the silence is proving to be omnipresent. What is going on just here? What is known is that Amsterdam's colorful cuisine largely thanks to black market is thriving and that the majority of illegal immigrants in this industry it deserves karges bread.

But why should one not even the still lifes of exotic pastes, sauce and pieces of meat under a heat lamp photograph? "Probably this is the result of our polarizing politics of the past few years," says later at a local beer. The permanent migrants, the debate verpestet atmosphere and a climate of mistrust created. The integration does not come as naturally progressing, annoyed the old Essene. "Instead, more and more to fear." And for all population groups.

Stockfish was slave food

How bad is it is ironic that before, that the seemingly growing divide in the Dutch society precisely in the search for the secret of broodje Bakkeljauw up. Because there are only a few dishes, so what with the colonial history of this country are overgrown like this snack. "Bakkeljauw" is the designation for Surinam Stockfish, then salted and dried cod. In parts of southern Europe, particularly in Portugal, is "Bacalhau" extremely popular, the Germans on the other hand, almost all the hulls nose.

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In the Caribbean and in the north of South America was once again Stockfish slave dish, for centuries. The dry canned made the economic success of the plantation economy even possible. The explosive growth of this industry in the 17th Century transformed the large and small islands in the Caribbean sugar islands true.

Also in Suriname? then Dutch Guyana called? and the neighboring British and French colonies grew especially the sugar cane plantations. Their sound was based on slave labor - 16 hours or more is working thousands of black African slave laborers a day in the sugarcane harvest. Their food had to be secured, of course, not on humanitarian considerations, but from a purely economic.

The supply of slaves with carbohydrates was less problematic, but in terms of proteins was initially a bottleneck. Stockfish Cheaper by the North American east coast was the solution. The Committee Neuengländer verscherbelten their goods to the plantation owners, the good fish stock they exported to southern Europe. Later, many specialized producers to mass-produced goods of inferior quality, thus expanding the Caribbean market.

In the Dutch colonies, slavery was abolished in 1863. The people were now free, at least on paper, but they remained there, where their ancestors had been dragged. And it was something else: a strong preference for "Bakkeljauw". Resourceful slaves had long since discovered, as is apparent from the cheap canned protein dishes were prepared. A symbol of the exploitation was a sampling of their culinary creativity has become.

Recipe found in de Pijp

Suriname was in 1975 in the independence dismissed. Poverty and unstable political situation had numerous Suriname to the country of the former colonial masters emigrate. Most of them come originally from black Africans, but there are also many exiles Suriname Indonesian, Indian and even Chinese origin. Their ancestors were as traders or wage workers have come to South America. The colorful mixture of people later took their course, with rich food culture in the North Sea. Much to the delight of the local lovers of exotic dishes.

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Two days after the disappointing search in the Eastern District of recipe finder will still find it. The tiny restaurant is called "Warung Swietie" and hiding in "de Pijp", a former working-class neighborhood, a few steps from the famous Albert Cuyp market. Before the door stands a handful of simple metal tables and chairs, indoor maximum of twelve people have space. If they insist.

A Love teenage couples spooning soup and turtelt dialect in Suriname. Yuk-Fong Wagimin, a serene man with a round face, welcomed the guest. "Broodje Bakkeljauw? Of course, we have." The recipe Wagimin not know, but he wonders like in the kitchen. The bread tastes once again wonderfully bizarre. The aromas of the sweet-spicy paste Stockfish capture the taste buds and retrieve memories of severe tropical heat awake. "I do not know why my colleagues do so secretive," says Fong Yuk-Wagimin emphasizes the shoulders and with a countenance as if he apologize.

Later, on the way back, while the twilight falls over Amsterdam and the street lights start to their yellow light to exude, the plagues Bakkeljauw-addicts still one question: Where can I just Süddeutschland Stockfish her?

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